Maine Revisited Part II
Friday July 11, 2008
The town is pristine. A couple of years ago, we visited for the first time. Back then, Bar Harbor was not impressive. It was a tourist traffic jam. However, this year, L.L. Bean teamed up with the local chamber of commerce and Acadia National Park to run a free bus shuttle service. The service utilizes small propane-fueled buses that operate frequently along well-publicized routes. They even have a bike van that will cart your bikes to nearby Acadia National Park. All of these services are free and very popular. The net result was notably fewer cars.
- Sunrise on Cadillac Mountain at 4:50 am
Sunrise sure does come early. We dragged ourselves out of bed and put on warm clothes to watch the sun come up over the Atlantic. It was windy and chilly and so very early. I didn’t feel right to be standing in daylight at 5am. Without a doubt, this was one of the most beautiful experiences of my life.
- Breakfast at Jeannie’s
We were breakfast hounds on our trip, and Jeannie’s looked like just the place. We were able to get a table just before the place filled up. My wife had blueberry pancakes while my daughter had walnut pancakes. My son and I went for the eggs, bacon, toast meal. While the food was excellent, the restaurant was very expensive.
- Rented Bikes at Acadia Bike Bar Harbor
We picked up our bikes and got fitted for helmets. My daughter was nervous about riding since she hadn’t much experience on a bike, but she was game to try. We headed to the town center to catch our bike transport van to Acadia.
- Rode around Eagle Lake and Jordan Pond
Acadia National Park was the playground of John D. Rockefeller. He established miles and miles of horse carriage roads all through what is now the park. The roads have been maintained as cinder roads since then.
We rode around Eagle Lake and Jordan Pond which ended up being about 15 miles. My son ended up taking a side trip apart from us and met us back in town after he rode back.
- Climbed the Beehive
Our busy day continued with a most extraordinary hike. Beehive is an accessible hike that stretches the vertical plane. The trail winds its way up a sheer rock wall about 1,300 ft. At times, you have to hoist yourself up from rock to rock using metal hand rails. Other times, you have to carefully walk on ledges with a five hundred foot fall staring you in the face if you miscalculate a step. It was an exhilarating hike.
- Traveled the Acadia Loop Road
This road is a unique byway. We’ve travelled much of America by Interstate and backroads, and this 27 mile loop road ranks right up there as one of the most scenic in the country. It has the same beautiful and daring views as the California coastal highway. The green beauty rivals Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park.
- Dinner at Rosalie's Pizza in Bar Harbor
My family appreciated this place more than I did. We were extremely hungry by the time we got back to Bar Harbor for dinner. A mass of people were crowded into Rosalie’s, and there wasn’t a table to be had downstairs. We quickly learned that seating in this informal restaurant is a free-for-all. Within a few minutes of our arrival, a mob of awaiting diners made a rush for the upstairs area. I squeezed in with them and rushed to the top level of the small restaurant. At exactly the same time that the mob ascended the stairs, a table group on the main floor left. My wife and kids were waiting nearest to that table and quickly sat down, claiming our turf.
I joined after I squeezed my way back down and we spent several minutes diagnosing the menu and observing the local ordering language. Once we were ready, we ordered. The kids shared a chicken pizza, and my wife and I each got calzones. My wife and daughter also got tiny $3.50 salads. My calzone, when it arrived was starved for size, but quite delicious. The pizzas looked and tasted like pizza with chicken on it.
As we were sitting there, I enjoyed watching the people. At one point a family at a nearby table began squeezing their way out of the restaurant. Large dad got up and walked out followed by large mom and the screaming pizza-faced baby in her arms. Left behind was a clueless three year old boy with blaze-red hair and moon glasses. The kid, seemingly unconcerned that his family had departed, began slowly weaving his way among the tables in the general direction of the exit. As he wandered, he was leaving a liquid trail from his precariously held pop cup. Meanwhile the equally oblivious and large parents were stationed outside smoking cigarettes. Thanks to some kind ladies at several nearby tables, the clueless boy was successfully navigated to the smoggy large parents and screaming baby.
Altogether, I thought that Rosalie’s was a fine place to grab a quick nondescript bite to eat, but it wasn’t worth all the hassle we went through securing a table, ordering our food, and enduring torturous people.
Saturday July 12, 2008
Checked out of Bar Harbor Inn
- Kayaked Bar Harbor in the morning
One of the goals of our trip was to step out of our travel box. On family vacations past, we would bust our butts driving to a new location. Rest. Then bust our butts driving to the next location. So this time we decided to stay in one place long enough to try new things. Kayaking in Bar Harbor can be classified as a new thing for us.
We went through the same company that rented bikes. For a reasonable fee, we joined their 9:00am harbor tour. Our guide was a University of Maryland student named Karen. Sometimes, based on information you gather from observation, you make snap judgments about people. We all had Karen pegged as a college science major. It turned out she is an English major.
I joined my wife in one kayak whileour two kids went in another. There were three other kayak couples plus Karen in our group. We started in Bar Harbor by the sand bar. And travelled around the west side of Bar Island and then around Sheep Porcupine Island. Along the way, we sampled kelp, watched an eagle nest, saw some cormorants, quietly paddled by a doe and her twins as they nibbled tender grasses by the shore, and stopped by a lobsterman’s platform to learn some interesting facts on the business.
Our 2.5 hour journey was fabulous fun and excellent exercise.
- Acadia Loop Road with stops at Thunder Hole, Sand Beach, Cadillac Mountain
On the way out of the area, we decided to take an extended sight-seeing trip on the loop road again. This time, we stopped frequently along the shore. We would park the car in the right travel lane (as is custom in Acadia). Each time we’d clambor down onto the rock ledges overlooking the ocean and just sit and catch breezes and views. Each time, climbing back into the van was a reluctant move, especially having the thought in the back of our minds that we had precious few hours left in Acadia.
- Had afternoon tea at Jordan Pond House Restaurant
We had set up a reservation for an afternoon tea at Jordan House Restaurant in the heart of Acadia National Park. We timed our arrival perfectly as we glided along the loop road.
We were ushered right to our seats on the patio overlooking the tea sipper on the lawn beside the pond. Next to us were some very loud European people. But our focus was on the star of the tea, the popover.
Popovers are rich, puffy rolls that are mostly hollow inside. They have a gooey interior that has a buttery-eggy-custard flavor. The kids got their popovers stuffed with blueberry ice cream, while my wife and I decided on two popovers and refreshing iced tea.
Eventually the Europeans left and the peace of the pond overcame all of us. We watched the waiters bustle from table to table in front of the glacial pond on a crystal clear summer day.
- Visited Bass Harbor Head Light
This was a little surprise we stumbled on to. We decided to visit the western portion of Acadia on our way out. This was just a cursory visit, since we didn’t really have time to explore. So we set our sights on the town of Bass Harbor with only a brochure picture to go by.
It turns out that Bass Harbor is guarded by one of the most photogenic lighthouses in the world. We took many pictures and had two very unusual encounters. First, we bumped into a couple from Virginia who were driving their Virginia Tech emblazoned SUV. We had a brief pleasant chat and then let them go on their way.
A few minutes later, we were standing on some rocks beside the shore looking up at the lighthouse when a bald eagle made a soaring low approach just above our heads. Watching an eagle in flight at such close range was a truly special moment.
- Traveled to Belfast, Maine
Belfast is located along the coast of Maine south of Bar Harbor and north of Portland.
We stayed a dog of a hotel in Belfast. Actually, it is a hotel placed on a stunningly beautiful lot right beside the shore. Every room had a balcony view of the harbor and ocean beyond.
I did manage to try out the community hot tub and the swimming pool. The pool seemed very strange. It was filled with salty, sweaty water, as if the pool had been played in all day by a large group of hot, sweaty people. After our stay, I did comment on the pool condition on an electronic survey that was sent to me. Almost immediately, the owner sent me an email. Below you’ll find his email and my reply.
Dear Mr. Ryder,
Thank you for taking the time to comment on your recent stay at the Comfort Inn Ocean's Edge. When we switched over to a mineral pool, we apparently did a poor job of informing guests. The salinity that you may have tasted is intentional. A saline solution is gentler on the skin then fresh water. The concentration is
similar to the salinity in the human eye. Chlorine levels are maintained by splitting the sodium
chloride molecule and releasing the chlorine into the water. Chlorine levels are maintained by computer,
checked manually and logged twice daily.
You make a good point about making sure people know.
Thank You,
Barry Asalone
General Manager
Comfort Inn Ocean's Edge
Thanks for the information.
Knowing that, I wish I had spent more time in the pool!
We did enjoy our stay at your hotel. The breakfast was perfect for us and the view is unparalleled. We even enjoy watching the 1,000,000 dogs run around, chasing each other in the green space between the hotel and bay.
You are very fortunate to live in such a beautiful place.
Thom Ryder
Thank you.
I feel fortunate to work in such a beautiful atmosphere. I live inland. I do appreciate your input.
Based on it, I'm writing a little informational posting about the mineral content.
Hope to have you back.
Barry
We spent very little time there, however. I did manage to sit out on the balcony and write a little piece.
Breeze is blowing off Penobscot Bay across my face. Directly in front of me are two hundred yards of grass leading down to the water's edge. A small wood-shaked cottage rests beside the water to my right. The wind is kicking up little white caps across the bay to Islesboro Island. A buoy, positioned off in the water not too far out from me tolls a lonely bell warning seabirds of impending land. A distant small sailboat bobs like a cork with its naked mast knifing into the wind. The morning mist and foggy sea-mist clouds are giving way to the day grudgingly. The world is very old here. It's sitting with me; resting and watching.
Yet, there are a bunch of little dogs running around in the grass below me. It's like this is a dog hotel and they are allowing me to visit. Lots of poodles, Jack Russels, terriers, and stuffy dogs all strutting around and barking at each other. Very strange. A dog show in town? The owner's all look like Harley bikers.
- Dinner at Dockside Family Restaurant
By the time we made it to the Comfort Inn on the north side of Belfast, it was about 7pm, and we were very hungry. So we immediately ventured in to the city of Belfast in search of a restaurant. Belfast is a more industrial town than most towns on the shore. Less touristy, but full of surprises. They were in the middle of a community art festival. Unusual sculptures dotted the main street. My son hopped on a bicycle fish sculpture and pedaled until his metallic fish tail swished back and forth.
We eventually decided on a family restaurant overlooking the harbor. The service was friendly and the food was generous. I settled for a basic burger and fries, and it was outstanding.
I learned somewhere along the way that Belfast used to be one of America’s greatest shipbuilding cities back in the 1700 and 1800’s. One day, I’d like to go back to Belfast and find out more about this curious town by the sea.
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